Wednesday

Cusco, Peru: Mate De Coca, Anyone?


The Red Bull of the Andes
 You have just arrived in Cusco, Peru at 10,800 feet, which is probably two miles above wherever you’ve come from. You head straight to the Plaza de Armas, the center of Cusco, which is the center of the Incan Empire, because you don’t want to walk anymore. You’re huffing and puffing up the stairs to a restaurant with a balcony on the plaza and every three or four steps you stop to regain your breath. From your seat on the balcony overlooking the plaza, your waitress brings you your mate de coca, your coca leaf tea. It tastes a little like Japanese green tea with a hint of menthol and it goes down easy, its warmth counteracting the chill in the air. After a few minutes you realize that your heavy breathing has abated and that dull pain in the back of your head is now gone. It’s not an alcoholic buzz, but you definitely feel better, sharper, more yourself. Two women in indigenous dress pull llamas in front of La Catedral down below you. As you look at life go by from above the plaza, you think about how this ritual has been done for centuries here in the center of the Andes. You take another sip and give in to the acclimatization process. There is no better way to spend your first few hours in Cusco.


This post was part of the Lonely Planet Blogsherpa carnival "Toasting Around the Globe" from Orange Polka Dot.

9 comments:

  1. They say it's the best cure for altitude sickness. My mum drank it once in Salta, Argentina, and she felt like running a marathon, whereas my dad didn't drink coca tea and felt curling up on the floor!

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  2. Hi Ana,
    Yes, it really is. It also gives you a little energy as you are climbing the Inca Tail towards Machu Picchu. I took an overnight bus and as I was leaving the bus in the morning, there were coca leaves scattered around the floor where the driver sat. It's the Red Bull of the Andes.
    Thanks for commenting.
    Jason

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  3. Interesting! I never knew this. What a nice introduction to the country.

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  4. Hi Nancie,
    You should definitely plan a visit. We were in Peru for 7 months and only scratched the surface.
    Thanks for commenting.
    Jason

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  5. I never noticed much of an effect, but I also live at close to 6000 feet, so that could be why. Did enjoy the taste, though! Wish I could've brought some home with me.

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  6. Jason,

    Is this a drink a foreigner must request, or is it usually a prerequisite to become acclimated to the country, so to speak?

    Ryan

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  7. Hi Ryan,
    In this case I ordered it, but chances are your hotel or hostel will have complimentary coca leaf tea for you on your arrival.
    It is pretty well known and on most menus. Almost every indigenous person sucks on a wad of coca leaves if they are hiking somewhere. Coca leaves are the key ingredient in cocaine.
    Jason

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  8. Glad I have stumbled across your blog. Its a cracking read. I'll be sure to be follow it more closely from now on.

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  9. Sounds perfect! It will be my first afternoon for sure.

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