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| Wood carving detail on my chair |
In some ways, Miguel Angel is much like the city in which he was born. The 28 year old Cusqueño with a cheerful countenance and easy manner seems torn between the same two worlds that divide Cusco: the world of the traditional and world of the tourist.
Miguel Angel was named after his father, the Italian translation of which echoes the name of one of the world’s greatest sculptors: Michelangelo. Miguel Angel’s father is a well-known wood carver and sculptor who makes pieces of wood come alive with intricate and detailed workmanship. The father makes altarpieces, armoires, picture frames, headboards, doors and all types of furniture (see photo). As I write this I am sitting in one of his chairs, a beautifully carved, high-back dining chair. He is particularly well-known for his altarpieces which adorn many churches in Cusco and one of his best sits in a museum in Denver, Colorado in the United States. The father has been able to support a large family through his work and they live very comfortably by Cusco standards. He’s done well enough to build 3 floors above his house to rent out: we live on the third floor. I’m guessing that there is some degree of pressure on his sons to follow in his footsteps: Miguel Angel carries on the Michelangelo name and his older brother is named David, after one of Michelangelo’s greatest works. I occasionally see Miguel Angel working on small pieces, just like his father; the other day he was gold-leafing a small carved picture frame downstairs. He’s also shown me a large painting that he’s done that is pretty good.
Like Cusco, I think it’s been hard for Miguel Angel to resist the allure of tourism and the money it brings in. One of the University of Cusco’s most popular degree programs is tourism, which combines history, language (English), cultural anthropology, archeology and business. The number of travel agencies in Cusco and the number of Cusqueños who speak some English has increased greatly since I was last here 23 years ago. Whenever I talk to someone working in a travel agency and ask them where they learned their English, they usually reply “in university.” Miguel Angel and his cousin have had plans to start a travel agency for some time now, but it has been slow getting off the ground. They have an office space downstairs with desks, phones, printed literature and some large posters of the various sites in and around Cusco. With his personal charm, good looks and ease around people, I think he would be very successful.
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What strikes me is that the decoration of the chair seems very European. Perhaps I am wrong.
ReplyDeletePerhaps the traditions are so intertwined now that they are one and the same?
I was in S. America in 1990-91 and I recall seeing "500 años de resistencia" badges everywhere - and I am thinking of that when I see the chair.
Such lovely craftmanship that chair. Sad if tourism becomes the only way one can make a living.
ReplyDeleteThe wood carving is beautiful.
ReplyDeleteI wish my Korean students would get their heads around the idea that English + tourists go together. It's almost impossible to find a travel agent in my city of almost 2 million people who speaks even basic English.
David,
ReplyDeleteThere definitely is a "fusing" of cultures and styles in South America. For more on this click on "Peruvian Fusion" on the top right of the blog under "What's in the Suitcase."
Jason
Sophie,
ReplyDeleteYeah, I'm torn on "progress" in Cusco. On one hand, there does seem to be a lot more wealth in Cusco these days, but I wonder if it only in the hands of a few.
Jason
Nancie,
ReplyDeleteWow-that's hard to believe. Many of the people I met in Cusco told me they were travel agents. They weren't travel agents in the sense that they had a storefront agency...just that they'd be willing (and probably capable) to drop everything and lead an impromptu tour of Macchu Picchu.
Thanks of commenting.
Jason
I really like the mixture of cultures especially when it is reflected in art. Last month I was in Argentina and I noticed artists there make a good living becaue it is a country that cares for that. I was in my buenos aires apartment near Plaza Armenia (there is a fair) and the craftmen sold everything the had!
ReplyDeleteKim